Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Granada: I could live here forever...


One Tree House
I took a bus from Valencia to Granada, a long 10 hour journey but a beautiful ride. Once I arrived I took another bus, and another bus to my final destination-the Albayzin quarter. Of course I got off one stop too late, as I always seem to do. This district is known for maintaining the culture and history of the medieval moorish past with narrow, winding cobblestone streets.
    The weather was pretty poor-Granada is known for its constant sun, so I was a bit surprised. It was nighttime when I entered so I spent some time catching up on the Internet, then climbed into the cabin style room. I digged the atmosphere at this place, very hippie like to match the Albayzin culture. The staff turned into great friends by the end of the stay, my time spent in the hostel was filled with jam sessions on the guitar and drums, and some chill time in the tree house. Yes, my hostel had a tree house. If I hadn't had a flight booked for Dublin, and I didn't have the urgency of arriving for Halloween, I think I would have extended my stay. It was just too much of paradise.
    Granada is the first place that I think is utterly beautiful, and is also somewhere I feel I could fit in. At this point in my trip through Spain my fluency and ease of speaking the language had improved, and I was managing to speak with almost everyone in the native tongue.
   
The following night I joined some fellow backpackers to tapas. My best friend Lauren had told me tapas in Granada were the best-wow was she right. We went to two different bars, ordered some drinks, and every beer comes with a tapas of your choice. Although I enjoyed being with fellow Americans, I get annoyed that being grouped with them marks me as a tourist. Whereas when I go out alone, I'm approached with a sense of local exchange. But company is always nice. That day I went to El Sacremento, the cave district. Usually people who can't pay for electricity and rent find housing in the caves. Some of the people actually have beautiful homes and the place has been passed down through their family. I was invited into one cave and fed a bunch of beer, while I was allowed to look around and had great conversation. The cave people are very kind people, they welcome visitors, and they love company. Maybe some day I will live in a cave.
       The next day I went shopping through the Arab markets. But I was interested in way too much stuff, it was all so indie style and hippy patterns. Moments like these make me wish I had an endless budget. So after some breaking of the bank, I got some solo tapas, spent some time in the tree house, and then went to La Alhambra for a night visit of the palace.

Wow, was it breathtaking. All lit up and the palace I entered was adorned with such complex geometric patterns. I was in one room for 20 minutes just staring up. I kept thinking how long it must have taken to chisel out the ceiling like that, how many hands were at work. And all these Arab phrases-although I had no idea what they meant, I could still appreciate the beauty. It was nice taking this night walk, but I noticed that many people were just walking through taking in the spectacle solely from their cameras lens. I think that is a little sad, they were just taking a snap and on to the next room. How do you appreciate things without seeing them with the naked eye first? The only reason I take photos is because I find an appreciation from my raw eye. Some music jam time when I returned, and I feel asleep in the tree house to the beats.
     The following morning I went with a fellow American to La Alhambra again. I was able to check out the gardens and some other palaces in the daylight with my double pass. The only unfortunate thing about the daytime, and it was finally a sunny day in Granada, was how crowded the whole area was. I had to use my crop magic to keep people out of my photos. I became so engrossed with the garden, I swear I spent about 20 minutes on just one picture of a flower. My American friend from Cali overheard that the sultan of the palace used to demand every visitor bring a plant or flower from their country, which explained the diversity in the gardens. And the whole of the place has maintained the same upkeep as was originally demanded, so it really looks like it once did.
   This was my last night so I started drinking with my hostel crew. Some Kiwi, a few west coast Americans, and some Spaniards. We all took a sunset walk to a huge hill, the view was killer. I mean, who wouldn't want to live in such a beautiful place? The city was nestled within the mountains so perfectly. And the people are just so nice and inviting. Over the hill we walked through the woods into a crazy rave. Some lights, an iPod tune setup, and about 100 people. We were passing a few family beers around to share among the group. Yes, family beers...that is what Granada makes of a group, it quickly changes them into a family. That is the magic of this place. I took a walk with an American girl, and wow...an amazing view of the Sierra Nevada snow capped mountains illuminated by the moonlight. Yep, Granada is a special place. The last jam sesh brought my time to an end and I took a quick 2 hr nap before grabbing a taxi for the airport.
Daylight View of Sierra Nevada Mountains
   All in all Granada was more than I could have imagined. All my Spanish friends/encounters had praised Granada as the best of the best. But it wasn't until I spent 4 days there that I gained such high appreciation for the place. Great tapas, kind people, and usually sunny weather. I will return and stay at the Makuto Guesthouse again, that is a fact.

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