To Poland for Heritage, To Prague to Czech it Out

Learning Polish History

I had told Caitlin I would do whatever she wanted for our Europe adventure together, which was concentrated in the eastern Europe area. But as we were going over our itineraries in the South of France at Becky's I knew I wanted to add Poland in there. Why poland?

My mother's side of the family is purely polish. Both of my great grandparents came from Poland on Ellis Island together and used some sort of matchmaker to maintain family nationality. My grandpa's surname was Americanized from wisnieski to walker...to make things easier for him. I wish I had learned more about this heritage before visiting because we descend from a beautiful region called Swalaski...all national park to this day.

Polish Castel in Krakow

So I came to Poland to learn about the history of this place...figure out why my family left this place. Having one day in Warsaw, Caitlin and I decided to take a free tour of the city. I learned this place has only maintained 20 years of freedom, which has been only very recently. We visited the basilica where the 2nd constitution in the world was signed (the first being the USA, of course). But the democracy system backfired on the poles because neighboring European mega powers paid off nobility votes-and they worked with a unanimity decision process rather than majority. So this place has been ruled by greedy kings with each reign concerning an entirely different agenda, and was split up into pieces after WW2. Also, Hitler was pissed that the poles were able to withstand his troops for so long-they were estimated to last 3 days and but actually they held strong for 60-so he completely decimated the city to show one to them. The city is therefore a very modern representation of what it might have been like...so much has been rebuilt because of war and such. All in all I learned quiet a bit about why this place gets such a poor reputation-and how different it is today filled with life wheras it used to be a place where people hid and rarely interacted.

Warsaw City Walls. . . Reconstructed to Look As It Might Have

This is what I wanted, to get some understanding of what my ancestors had to go through when they lived over here. Just the essence of it helps get to know my Polish lineage.

So our one day in the capital consisted of walking around the gardens where the tomb of the unknown soldier lies. It was a beautiful morning, walking and just talking with Caitlin about life and our aspirations while passing pretty fountains adorned with weeping willows. We then took the free walking tour, where I learned some background history of the place. The tour ended with a vodka shot and lard pickle sandwich-the grease helps with the intensity of the shot. Poles do not like when others decline drinking, so for future reference say you have health issues if you prefer not to join in festivities. We wanted to indulge in some traditional perogies at a local restaurant, but the moment we sat down we realized we had to run to catch our train. Amazing Race back on again, we sprinted back to the hostel, swiftly grabbed our bags, and speed walked to the train. With a few minutes to spare I grabbed a hot dog and sweet cherry pie. Once on the train I put my tunes in and zzzzzzz. Then I awoke and a polish controller was asking for my ticket. Turns out we were in 1st class, which made me laugh because it looked just the same as 2nd.

The Park in Warsaw

    A few hours later we were in Krakow. Our hostel was perfection! It was like home. Nice living room with flat screen TV, newly renovated kitchen, comfy beds with fluffy pillows...and get this, they did our laundry and folded it all nice like Mama would :D Recommended to a place from the hostel staff, we went to Chata for real polish fare. Wooden tables comforted by fur, low lit by lanterns, I felt as if we had just returned from a long day of hunting. We ordered the hunters stew and dumplings, such a hearty meal. The Polish are well known for their vodka so we decided it would be our drink of choice for the night. But by the time we were ready to go out it was raining. Krakow was suggested by friends and told to be a great party scene...but the rain must have scared everyone away. We landed at the first bar semi filled with college students, but while we were ordering I noticed the crowd slowly disperse with glass drinks in hand. By the time I had taken my first sip it was just Caitlin and I. I asked the bartender if we could take the drink with us, he was short to reply with a negative. We were going to try another place but it was freezing cold, rainy, and the streets were empty. The following day we slept in, it was pretty hard to wake up since the bed was the most comfortable to date. But we made it to another walking tour through Krakow which furthered the Polish education. Unlike Warsaw which is pretty modern since so much was decimated, Krakow is very old and the buildings are the same from years ago. It also used to be the capital, so it was also rich in history. A long day of walking calls for a delicious meal. Caitlin and I found a place where we ordered soup again-rye bread this time. When the weather is cold, all the body wants is something warm and comforting. We returned "home" to our hostel and although we weren't staying there another night, they still let us crash in their lounge and use their kitchen for dinner. Caitlin prepared some epicly delicious perogies before we had to catch a ride to the night train. Bellies full I was so ready to fall asleep on the train to Prague. A little mix up on buses over to the train station, but we made it just in time. Luckily there was only 4 of us in the 6 bed train room...but the sleep wasn't the best as I kept on thinking someone was going to take my stuff. It was pure paranoia though, we had very friendly roommates and our door was locked.

Rainy Days in Poland

Caitlin's Rib Platter

   Early morning we arrived in Prague. I was very excited as I have been told it is the best city in Europe. 3 nights there was just enough to czech it out ;) Our hostel staff wasn't very helpful, when I asked her for a breakfast spot she suggested the train station or McDonald's...so I knew google would be my main source of local knowledge. We decided upon a free tour which lasted over three hours. It's really helpful to take these right as you get to a city because they provide great background knowledge you need to understand exactly what you are looking at it. Granted, things can look beautiful regardless...but knowing some back story is always nice. Post tour we followed the tour guides suggestion for a lunch spot, I ordered the farmers plate. Duck and a whole bunch of other meat, signature pancakes... Very yummy, and of course complimented with a beer. Later that night I went on a run to take a different perspective of the city. 

 Although I much prefer summer weather, fall weather has me feeling like I could run for miles on end. I got pretty nostalgic of my lacrosse team while running. Something about that team aspect and probably also the fact every time I log into Facebook I have a few notifications of practice back home. After a hot shower Caitlin and I decided to walk to the grocery store, load up on local beer, and make a beer tour of our own. While cooking dinner I met some other fellow hostel stayers, two girls from Iraq. They had just finished working in the war and were taking  vacation to "get some distance from it all". I hadnt really ever taken much time imagining employment in war as mandatory. One girl said she really doesnt like talking about it, because she may not agree with whats going on...but she just feels the need to support her country. Its not a choice, she said. I took pride in being American in that moment. I was raised with such freedom, and I too often take it for granted.

Beauty of Prague

     Ok...back to the beer tour. We had the intention of making it to the 5 story club that night but the company of a Canadian talking politics and ethics brought us to 2am and we didn't find the cover worth it at that point. Next morning we slept in a little late, then joined a walking tour of the other side of Prague which includes the magnificent castle...basically a new town in itself. This tour guide spoke as if we knew a lot of the history already so we were very happy we had the knowledge of the previous days tour. 

Tour to Cathedral, Prague

We choose to go to one of the cheap eats Google suggested and it was delicious. Pig slaughtering goulash might not sound appetizing, but it was. And my friend Tess insisted I try the pate in Prague so I ordered a starter of the goose pate....yummO, delicious food and affordable prices. We continued to tour the city and take pictures, getting lost is sometimes the best thing when you are in an unfamiliar city-especially when it's all safe. Another pre dinner run, catching a great sunset and running through another area we had yet to explore. That night we joined a pub crawl-$20US for 3 hours of open bar and free shots and entry at the following bars, and a free tshirt :D Currently there is a prohibition going on in Czech. Some vulgar individual decided to taint the liquor with methanol resulting in 20 deaths and 5 or some blinded. In order to stop this toll the country has banned all liquor over 20%. At some points I felt like I was back in time, but during the pub crawl it was actually handy to be limited to beer and watery shots. Caitlin and I entered the first bar where the 3 hours started and immediate smiles on our faces-we were the only girls. Coming from College of Charleston where the girl to guy ratio at times is 60/40, we were super giddy. I mean, there was a line for the boys bathroom-that never happens! Let's just say we had a great time, spending a lot of time with a group of Scottish guys, in Prague for a mates bachelor party. When the first one introduced himself Caitlin responded "I only speak English" hahahaha, hilarious, good thing they have a great sense of humor! We took the time to get used to the heavy accent. A night well worth it, but a pretty rough morning on my part to follow. We wandered around again, visiting some gardens that had been closed before for a wedding. That day we rescinded on our statement "We will never eat here, that's only for 'those' types of Americans", and we indulged on some Mexican for lunch. Our bodies just didn't want meat anymore, and in combination with Poland everything recently had been like Thanksgiving food-which is delicious but can be a little much. We returned to the hostel later and spent a lot of time planning for Croatia (I'm super excited about this part of our euro trip). For dinner, we had some cheap Pho, Vietnamese soup and egg rolls. This was actually fitting to the culture is surprisingly a supple Vietnamese population. I was so tired and think I might have also been coming down with something, so I crawled into bed early and was out for the night. I thought it might be hard since there was someone kids getting ready for a Sunday rage fest, remember we are in Prague, but I even passed out with the lights on. Early morning wake up to pack up and continue the backpack adventure to Vienna, Austria.
   Overall, I enjoyed Prague. But I wouldn't call it my favorite city so far. Maybe its the fall season, and if the weather was nicer I could have had a more positive attitude. Don't get me wrong, it was beautiful. But top of my list so far is Florence and Santorini.

View from Castle, Prague

Greece: A Vacation from My Vacation

Trying out my photo taking skills 

We landed in Greece from the French Riviera. A nice quick flight. Now, my expectations for this country were mixed. I'd always imagined this place to be a dream, beautiful water and beautiful people. I mean, I was an avid watcher of Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants...it paints a certain appetizing picture.  I'd always wanted to come since I was in 6th grade when I was invited with my friend whose family is from Mykonos. But, my parents said it was dangerous then...it was after 9-11, so any distant travel was construed that way. My parents still see it as dangerous now-but this is my Europe trip and I didn't hear any arguing from them besides "be safe".
    It also didn't help that when I tripadvisored our hotel in Athens there were multiple comments about crackwhores and prostitutes out the front door. When we walked up the steps of the metro into Athens city, I still had some in-clinking of hope...but the moment I set eyes on the first, the second, the fifteenth homeless person all looking at me googly eyes I realized the filth of the district. Everyone was right. Greece is in a rut-it's very obvious. I could see how there was rioting, war, chaos. We stayed in the first night and I realized our sole reason for venturing to Athens was to check out the ruins-it was only in that first night that I realized I would have to endure the actual ruins to get the chance to venture the ancient ruins. 

Parthenon at the Acropolis in Athens 

The group photo, worth the pain 

Our day touring the acropolis was nice...we got pics at the parthenon, Zeus' columns, and the shrine to Athena. But it was bloody hot, and I killed my ankle trying to set the camera up for a group photo shoot on a hill...so really I could have just dodged the city and headed straight to the islands and I would have been dandy. But when you come to Greece you gotta check the culture. That night we walked to get food around 9pm. The homeless and sketchy were plentiful and when Caitlin and I asked the desk clerk for an ATM he advised us against even leaving the place. We were literally walking 2 blocks to a cafe, and we had Liam, and my strong arm so I wasn't very worried-but his blanket statement made me a little apprehensive on the walk. 

The next morning we woke at the crack of dawn to catch the ferry-our first of many-to the island of Paros. We used the metro to get there, and walking at 6AM with 2 bottles of liquor was like waving drugs in front of an addict. Not until we saw the street sleepers faces did we realize it was the liquid gold we had in our hands that was causing them to salivate. But, pleasant Greeks do exist. Lauren was sick on the metro there and this kind gentleman gave her a packet of wipes.

Smiling on the beach in Paros

Landing in Paros brought positive reassurance why we came to Greece in the first place. The water is crystal blue, the beaches are sandy, and the people want to serve you. We thought we could get to our apartment on our own accord, but landed at a florist shop. The owner of our place picked us up right away and I was very happy to see our place-a fantastic view and a pool too. I took a sunset run that night, and happiness flowed back into my system. I found a cliff with a fantastic Panoramic view and a beach nearby that just shined paradise. 

Sunset View Paros

3 nights in Paros. We rented a car our second day to explore the island, a red jeep that I stood on, rather than sat-feeling very much on top of the world. No cops around island to snicker at us either. We went out that night to a nearby Irish club...we were the only ones there besides a few Germans. We decided on a day at Parasparos beach the following day. For dinner we were stoked to cook something and save some money, grabbed 15% wine and returned to our place to feast. Yuck, the red wine was unbearably sweet. I tried mixing it with Pepsi (Lauren's Spanish secret to mask bad wine). Still, Yuck. We later realized we had bought dessert wine-so much for being cheap. Consequently we tried to drink Lemoncello we had been hauling from France. Again, not mix drink worthy. Its the type a thing you take a solo shot of after din din....not something to get intoxicated off of. After a long decision process we agreed to check out the other side of the island, which was promised to be youth worthy. It was dead. But we wandered upon the best of the best Greek frozen yogurt. Smiles returned to our faces.

View from the Jeep

 The following day we left for IOS. I was slightly concerned, since Paros had been so dead, I thought we would have completely missed the season. For those who don't know, IOS is world renowned as party central...it's got a great reputation for yielding an epic time. We stepped off the port with far too many Greeks yelling and grabbing our hands for accommodation, avoided their path and bused to our hotel. Another fantastic place. White linen flowing sun canopies and a view of Mylopotas Beach to die for. Another scene of paradise, and walking down to the beach my smile stretched larger seeing the plenty of people my age chilling poolside and beachside.

Mylopotas Beach

 Two nice Aussies found Lauren and I at the beach and chatted us up. I soon realized the Aussie accent would fill my head during my time on Ios-these kids flock here each summer to enjoy the pattern of work and party. We were told Ios was settling down, and usually the place is packed...but that there was still plenty of fun to be had. For dinner we were recommended by our beach buds to check out Harmony Mexican Restaurant, a friend of a friend of Lauren's worked there too...and we were all pretty over Greek food, so it was the perfect place for us. As we walked over we saw a string of kids bar crawling for a 1/2 century party-two of the harmony employees had turned 25. We made it just in time for a few drinks for happy hour and enjoyed an incredible view, great food, and live music. The night scene in Ios was something we had all been desperate for. I lost my friends at one point in the night and stumbled, literally I tripped up the steps, into a bar and embarrassingly decided that was where I would stay. 3 jäger bombs for 10 euros-a good deal to boot too. Caitlin miraculously found me and we danced to some familiar old school beats. 

First Night Out Ios 

The following morning wasn't the most pleasant, but nothing some sunshine couldn't cure. Lunch at some local Greek spot took over an hour for what should have been easy gyros...so with that service in mind, it was a given we ate at Harmony for dinner the next two nights. Also, I forgot to mention that you get free shots at the end of your meal at Harmony :D The following afternoon I got some loner time away from the group and met a Dutch guy, he was a photographer for the water sports crew that takes people on boat rides/tubing excursions. I got a free ride on the boat while he was snapping shots of patrons on the tube, fully enjoying being on the water...and even happier I didn't have to pay for it. That night I met the crew at Harmony, 2 minutes to spare for happy hour. They told me when they arrived the bartender walked them over to our lounge of choice with a "reserve" sign on it. Yeah, that felt good. This place Harmony is known as THE spot for hanging...during high season the owner told us waits can last up to 2 hours, they only take large parties, and some reserve spaces a year in advance. I was floored, and finally relieved we had come as the season was ebbing down. We got to enjoy the place with no rush, and got to know the local Aussie staff. 

The Harmony Scene

I had cut off my workout streak in Ios, but if you had the surplus of fun we had you wouldn't judge. Our last night we opted for a taxi to the bars as we missed the last bus into town. Lauren tried to argue for a better deal but I just hopped right in, not helping her with the barter process. Dancing and fun. Lauren and I were tempted to try a challenge at one bar, to beat the record for girls of 3 shots in 7 seconds. We practiced with hand motions seeing if we could achieve it and then realized we would have to train for something like that. I thought I met a Greek....finally my Kostos...turns out he was Israeli. Later in the night I had lost Caitlin, Liam and Lauren went off to get gyros, and I found some Aussie girls we had eaten with at Harmony. I spent the rest of the night with them, went to some empty Greek bar and found myself trying a tequila shot, but instead of lime an orange with cinnamon. It is a new favorite. One of the bartenders started "playing around" with the owner and took out a gun, aimed at the guy and they were chuckling. Instinctively I dropped to the ground, another Greek guy asked me what the worry was they were just having some "fun", then by my reaction played it off as the gun was fake. Not my type of party so us girls left and found the bakery open munching on some delicious spinach pie. Now that's my type of end to a night ;)

I awoke bright and early and headed straight to the ocean to absorb some calcium. We were off to the ferry in the afternoon and we found some of our Canadian friends who were headed to Santorini as well. Now, Santorini is renowned for being the most popular, most published, most picturesque island in Greece. Granted, it was beautiful...but we had such a great set up in IOs so I was slightly mourning our departure. Our place was nice, pool included again, and walking distance to a black sand beach. We were planning on cooking in since we had a hot plate and spent a little too much money in Ios. But we lazily wandered to this place Tranquilo with advertised XXL salads. They were truly humongous, and after the first bite we realized this would be our new Harmony. It had a nice chill hippie vibe with tapestries all over the place and a comforting "stay local, be local" promise of ingredients.

Tranquilo Salad XXL Style

 We decided to rent a car for the next 3 days...which was essential because of the size and stretch of this island. We got to check out 3 different beaches in a day, including the famous Red Beach which takes it's name from the red volcanic rock color of the walls and sand. The next morning I woke earlier to try and make Tranquilo's morning Ashatanga yoga they host at 730AM. I woke at 7 and turned off my alarm to not bother my Suitemate Caitlin...then, shit, it was 723 in the blink of an eye. I ran downstairs and told Lauren we had 7 minutes, she grogged and rolled over to cuddle Liam. I momentarily thought, oh well, too late...but I've been missing my yoga routine since Charleston so in one swift second I threw on my gear and was running off to the place, sandals slapping the pavement. Luckily it started late so I had time to spare. It was nice to find some Shanti, peace, and to return to prajna breathing. The ocean waves crashed in the background and my body craved the therapeutic release. After the practice I was refreshed, rejuvenated, and reawakened. If only my Charleson Power Yoga class could follow me through Europe.  

Red Sand Beach

 That day we decided on a few other beach stops and left the sunshine in the afternoon to explore the town of Fira, the main set of Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. White stone houses all along the cliff side, donkey rides up the 500hundred or so steps, and tons of shopping. Looking in the distance at mountains surging up from the crystal blue Aegean Sea is breathtaking, in the distance the white houses set the mountains to appear snow-capped in the blazing sun. Oia, a small town set beside Fira, is renowned for their sunset view where hundreds of people line up around the side walls and at this ancient old castle. We had Liam and Lauren reserve us a spot the first day-you do really have to get there 2 hours ahead to get a decent seat. Returning with ice cold Coca Cola lite I perched up next to Liam letting my feet swing off the scaffold. Such a surge of energy sometimes just to dangle your feet over a hundred meter drop, looking at the poor donkeys headed on the way up the never ending stairs I was happy I spared them of my weight, and happy I spared my wallet of the cost. It's a pretty view where we were, but we got unlucky with the sunset...massive clouds swept through and the blazing orange sun disappeared.

View from Santorini Sunset

Photo of Sunset Viewing Point

We ate out at Tranquilo again which took far too long. Lauren and Caitlin played the teasing game of anticipating every plate that left the kitchen. They compd us with a free bottle of wine probably because they saw how hunger lay on my friends faces. Our food came and a local band started booming behind us. Enjoyable music, but it cut off the table talk-not that we really wanted to talk, everyone was shoving food in their mouth desperate from hunger. The next day we decided to stay at our beach in Parissa, the water was perfect and I was able to swim endlessly out into the sea getting a crucial water workout. I had wanted to try and climb the nearby mountains as there was a rock walk, and I wanted to figure out what this one establishment was perched halfway up, but the beach was too comforting and I knew I wouldn't be Oceanside much longer (Caitlin and I are headed to Eastern Europe next). That night we dressed up nice and decided to give the Oia sunset another shot. We had also walked by what smelled like the most delicious restaurant with a panoramic view so we decided to indulge. The sunset had the same effect as the day before, but we got a few photos looking better mannered than the day before. Although the service at the restaurant was less than commendable, the mussels in red garlic sauce I got were great...I had been dying for some nice seafood. Frozen Greek yogurt for dessert still didn't stand up to that on Paros.

Dangling my feet in Oia

    The following day we took the afternoon ferry back to Athens, an 8 hour trip. Before loading the boat they have you in a holding room. We arrived 45 minutes early so at first it seemed nice and there were plenty of seats. Slowly but surely it began to fill. Although I was already sitting next to someone, this lady pointed at my water bottle I had planted to generate space between my neighbor and I. I looked puzzled and picked it up, immediately she sat down, forcing me to basically share my seat. I was baffled that a stranger would actually do that. Being in a room with hundreds of people staring out the window in anticipation for the boat speaking in 20 different languages was making me go stir crazy. But there was really no escape, I just had to endure it. A free for all to the ferry when it arrived and luckily we knew a second door to enter, the seasoned ferry riders we were. We passed the time with some games of hearts and sandwich making sessions...I am completely sick of Tzazki and feta for now. The sunset from the boat was magnificent. The sun went down as we passed Paros and i overheard a greek gentleman with a high end camera telling another how Paros actually has better views of sunset than Santorini island-after our stay on the islands I would have to agree. We landed in Athens at midnight, asking every single bus and Greek where the bus to the airport was. We walked with a few friends using the Lonely Planet guide, wandered somewhere totally not right, found another large group by a bus stop and finally thought we had found it. Then out of no where one of the previous friends runs by "bus down the street, to the airport, leaving now". Lauren and Liam went to check and then the rest of the group we followed earlier went sprinting by. Lauren and Liam returned within distance and I realized it was go time. I swear our transportation transfers mirror episodes of the Amazing Race. Backpack on, buckled, and using my Santorini workouts to my advantage sprinting to a hidden bus terminal. 5 euros paid and we were off to the airport. Caitlin and I's flight was at 3pm and we arrived at 130Am. Earlier in the day, with the magic of google I had found "best places to sleep in Athens airport". The chapel was the overall response (random an airport having a chapel in my opinion) but literally a god send. It was secluded by what seemed like two hallways of sound proof doors and was carpeted. Caitlin and I snuggled together, and besides our 3AM wake up when we were told to move by the police, we were never bothered again. I woke up to Lauren giving us some of their blankets before their earlier flight left, and a few other employees or chapel users shutting some doors, but other than that a great night sleep until 10AM. The wonders of google, and some help from the big man, I guess.

Blondies I travel with 

Now off to Poland-just a night in Warsaw, a night in Krakow, and then the night train to Prague. Wish Caitlin and I luck...it's just us cougars for the next 24 days exploring all we can of Eastern Europe.

Italia: Not Many Stallions, But No Deficit of Scams

We left the French Riviera, a great week of relaxation with sun and fun, for Italia. Before setting up shop in Milan, we decided to take a day trip to Bologna, known for being the food Mecca of Italy. That it was- a 10 euro meal (salad, pasta, dessert and wine) and the dankest gelato yet (walnut/pinenut cream and nutella)...yummO. 

Best Gelato in Bologna

My first thoughts of Italy was that it had adorable mini streets and tons of churches. That night we trained to Milan-the worst hostel ever. The first night was hot, I didn't sleep much. I awoke, went on a run to some nearby park. No one really understands running outside here...when I asked the desk clerk for a good route he started drawing all these arrows on the map and proceeded to hand it to me, I'm not going to run with a map, how cumbersome, so instead I took the pen and wrote RLRL, right-left-right-left. He insisted on shoving the map at me, so I just threw it out as I jogged down the stairs. The park was a run-down place of old buildings, homeless people, and a few Italian men working out in their jeans, again puzzling. 

View of Lake Como from Hill Top

We went to Lake Como for the day, as was advised by the Parisian-American artist I met earlier. It was beautiful. Gorgeous side streets, romantic walkways, and a view to die for. That day we took the cheap route and made a large panini taking seat in the park with a lake view. Well, it was a shady spot, maybe not the best as there was a homeless guy sleeping a few meters away. His homeless friends were stealing his liquor and taking pictures of him on their phone. I wanted to swim in the water but we later learned that the area of Lake Como we were at wasn't swimmable-the hobos throw their drugs and needles into that area of the lake when the cops come by at night. Phew. I'm happy I didn't jump in! We took a gondola ride up the mountain top to check out a panoramic view...it was well worth the 5 euro ride. We walked by a few houses I could see myself living in the future*take note future husband. 

Lake Como Park Side

Group in Lake Como, Can't you tell it was my fav?

After, we returned to Milan and grabbed some pizza in town. The main plaza was a popular destination. Another gorgeous church-breathtaking. I could tell it was the fashion capital with the rows of high-end shops...but a poor backpacker can only window shop, and I'm not that attached to materialism to begin with.

Main Plaza in Milan-Candid

We returned to the hostel later that night and to our dismay we were moved to a different room. The agent walked us up. Flick of a switch. Bright light and 8 other fellow backpackers were annoyingly woken up. Liam's bed had luggage on it but the agent just moved it and told him to sleep there. The sheets had a stain on it and I insisted they be changed since I was paying each night for clean ones. This room was hotter. I would have preferred to just use the Internet rather than sleep but they switched it off and closed the common room at 10pm-so silly. At 2 AM I saw a girl come to wake Liam up. Then I heard her leave and yelling at the staff. I went to deal with the situation. The staff was screaming at this poor girl. She had been studying for a med exam she had that same morning, she told me they made her move from the lobby because her spotlight was bothersome, they told her to study in the smelly bathroom. So after a gross as study sesh she was off to bed and to her dismay my friend was in her spot. The staff was trying to have her move rooms. I went off-I hadn't made any remarks about the poor quality of the service and two days at this place had me steaming. I wanted to get this girl or my friends night comp'd. they were basically charging two people for one bed. I opened the door to our previous suite they had moved us from, while the desk agent was screaming at me how this wasn't my battle to fight. He told me there were people sleeping in there. The room was empty. So, basically, they had moved us from an empty room to another crammed room, and they were also trying to double charge a bed. I kept my tone short and not too aggressive, but in return I was getting yelled at. I could take it. But this girl started crying. I went to wake up Liam and just told this girl to go to bed and not worry about it. They moved Liam to another room and he calmed me down and told me to just suck it up and go to bed-no compromise was coming anytime soon. Nonetheless, my tripadvisor comment will hopefully deter future backpackers.

.....sorry for the trail off....I just had to bitch somewhere....

I was begging to leave in the morning, and held down the deep urge to flick my middle finger as we were departing. I'm not that nasty, but sometimes being treated like shit makes you want to spit lemons. Off to Florence. We were going to try and buy a 4 bedroom for 5 of us....but once we started booking the room I could tell Liam's palm was twitching thinking Lauren was alone waiting on the street at night awaiting our sign to sneak her on in. In the end the staff at this hostel was too nice and we were given our very own bathroom..much more of hotel atmosphere...so we decided to rent another room. I benefited with a single room-some nice peace after the previously unbearable hostel.

Florence Bridges Make Me Happy

 Everyone in the group kept on telling me I would love Florence and they were right. That next morning I woke early, and went on a run to the river that goes through the city. Adrenaline rushing and endorphins flowing, my mind was on cloud nine doing crunches looking up at a statue of Machiavelli. I must stand out like a sore thumb when I do my workout routine in the middle of tourist attractions, but I could care less. We spent 3 days exploring, sightseeing, and taking in the history that city had to offer. Again, lots of magnificent churches. We had one dinner with  an amazing view of the duomo-10 euro for salad, lasagne, and white wine. We wandered to an Irish sports bar that night which was fun getting liquored up. So much walking around makes one tired-but glimpsing the night life is always a must. The last night we took a very, very long walk up a hill to check out the panoramic view. We made it just in time for sunset-the clouds looked sick, but the sunset didn't deliver any colors. We laid out our spread and on the steps nearby a crowd had gathered to listen to an artist playing Italian and American beats alike like Paul McCartneys hits. We danced while looking at the epic view. Florence was definitely one of my favorite Italian cities.

Night View of Firenze/Florence

The next morning we were off on our next stop-Siena. Only one night here and we basically had a shared apartment so we cheapily pulled off the 4 for 5 deal. Some other Americans were in the apartment as well and when we were drinking later in the night I was abashed to be an American. I was forced to remember that annoying, caddy, sorority voices existed. Lauren rolled her eyes at me a million times over (I love having her to always secretly judge people; just one glance and we are both on the same page). 

Metro/Mall aka our Stair Master

Lauren and I went on a run that night...a good running combo because just in the moment I'm ready to stop, she adds another 15 minutes and vice versa. In attempts to not run uphill on our way back we added a bunch of extra time and decided to run through the metro/mall. I'm sure the only tourists having done that-using their crazy sequence of stairs to enhance our workout. The view from Siena is just so quintessential Tuscany. That night we cooked a great sausage pesto pasta. And I bought my favorite wine-Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio-for less than half the price they sell it in the states. We laughed and had lots of wine-drinking some expensive 30 euro wine that the other drunken Americans continued to share...the chianti tasted delectable. We could hear the party in the plaza from our apartment. So crowded, Caitlin, Sabine and I were stapled to each others hands as not to get lost in the stampede. The music stopped soon after we arrived around 130AM and we were looking for the next party destination. Turns out there is no party besides the piazza. And every Italian man I talked to had a girlfriend. Unsuccessful night that ended with Sabine and I snuggling at 4am watching Sex n the City to get our fix.

Sabine and Caitlin looking at the Tuscan View

Following Siena we took a day trip to a town called San Gimignano. It was such a quaint, small town. Even with the rain it was beautiful. Lots of pictures and some solo roaming before heading back on the bus to the train station. I was so happy I packed rain gear. From this point in our Italian adventure it was rainy...I'd say a pretty lucky stretch of perfect weather. 

  

Pantheon View of a God

We arrived in Rome and headed to our hostel. A good location, yes, but I swear they were working some kind of scam. We were locked out for "cleaning" from 10am to 5pm. Our first rainy day we forgot this lock-out and tried to go back for a safe haven from the downpour. I walked into the room hoping for a nap. Instead of 10 beds, there were only 2 and everyones luggage was stacked in the center. Liam and I infer they were trying to get away with not paying extra taxes. 3 days in Rome was a lot. Yes, there is so much to explore. But all of that constant movement and previous sightseeing made me pretty worn out. During our stay we went to the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, The Vatican, Sistine Chapel, Spanish steps, multiple churches and a pretty palace. The lines to these attractions was part of the torture, and in Rome there are locals everywhere trying to book it for you. A constant repetition and murmur of "Skip the line if you join me".

Trevi Fountain

 Overall Italy and some of France has given me the impression that Europe is a bit of a scam. Hospitality in New Zealand, Australia, and Costa Rica was much more welcoming and inviting. But, as one of my professors said when I started to complain about this, I guess that's just what it is. . .he said the "awe" of the place. I think maybe if I didn't carry around a gigantic backpack on my back maybe people would be a bit nicer.Who knows. Legend has it that if you throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain in Rome then you will return to Italy. . .well my first flick of a coin and a tourist walked by and vetoed my shot. So, I took the other legend, that if you drink in the Trevi Fountain you will return to Rome. Gross, yes maybe. . .and maybe it's all a legend. . .but I don't want to mess up my chances of returning to a beautiful city. . .with more energy $andmoney$ next time, I hope.

I'm happy to now be starting my Greek adventure. They have a poor economy, so maybe they will be empathetic to us poor tourists. . . but at least island time awaits!